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Boxes of wonders : the glove's box

December 30, 2009

A box of wonders full of gloves and popular expressions: Iron fist in a velvet glove. It fits like a glove. Be flexible like a glove. Throw a glove to someone, ...

But also the glove, as a sign of courtly love. Remember that for a woman to drop her glove before a suitor meant assent. The glove, like a second skin. Each morning, the pleasure of opening the glove box and choose a pair to match the occasion: a ride with the Parisian Velib  bicycle, a hot chocolate at Angelina, a concert at Pleyel ... Elegant ladies, do not go out without a pair of gloves and I assure you that having your glove picked up on the street by a handsome young man is much better than surfing on Match.com !

The textile Blog

December 29, 2009

A wonderful blog exploring the world of textiles. John Hopper, its talented author full of curiosity and erudition offers a broad and incredibly eclectic vision of textiles in all components and origins. Implicitly, he manages to demonstrate how textile is co-substantial with the adventure of human species. With a beautiful iconography and outstanding writting, he performs the miracle of making presented textiles to appear tangible ! These stories of textile are also very moving stories of human beings. When I need to feed my imagination, I get to surf on the textile blog and I walk through it just like within a wonderful
caravanserai. Inspiring ! http://thetextileblog.blogspot.com/

Boxes of wonders : the malicious box

December 13, 2009

Last week, a rainy day of winter in Paris. To make a fuss, it comes to my silly mind to invent a strange figure made of ribbons and lace. I dress HER up, add an umbrella and stick some needles in her body to avert fate and bad weather. Besides her, I set up a button's box that probably belonged at some point to a marabout. The brand's motto is odd. It says le Sava, nail button, either dies or gets devoted !


Apology of the caraco (camisole)

December 9, 2009 at 15:03

Should the caraco be included to the UNESCO's World Heritage List ?

My answer is definitely YES because the genuine camisole, a practical and sensual underwear, is threatened by new models against nature. They damage our
silhouette instead of glamorizing our sumptuous hips and chest and they use trivial names: top, body. Therefore, I say it loud and clear "Let's protest against the vinyl body that make handsome men run away !



Above, a traditional camisole (19th century) with simple cotton panels and perforated straps. Previously, women were buying this common clothing on markets.

In his book "100 Words to Save" our legendary TV presenter Bernard Pivot is working to preserve endangered words, (a French habit). The exotic and singing Caraco term is one of them. I quote: "The jacket (male name) is a word of Turkish origin "Kerake" which means two pieces of woman clothing, one that hides, the other that shows. Formerly, a jacket was a blouse, a pretty
ample blouse, a piece of the above in which one could only guess the shapes of her owner ...

...  today the camisole is a piece of lingerie. Sometimes silk or satin. It is a very sexy underwear, which stops right at the waist and is held by thin shoulder straps. The knickers are sometimes combined. Above, a model of my new collection made from a traditional pattern with old fabrics : silks and laces of the 19th century.

The fantasy camisole. This is the kinky underwear adopted by sensual or fast women pictured by the 19th century authors, including Maupassant.
  

In honor of Gerard de Nerval, I wish to share a quote from his famous Pandora "You have all known, O my friends, the beautiful Pandora of the Viena theater. She has left no doubt for you as well as for me, cruel and sweet memories! ... Neither man nor woman, nor hermaphrodite, nor woman, neither young nor old, nor chaste, neither mad nor shy, but all this together ... Finally, the Pandora that's says it all but I don't wish to say it all. At last, the seductive Pandora had to play a trick of her own. She appeared in a frivolous costume with a white camisole embroidered with garnets and a dress of Scotch stuff. Her hair shaped as a lyre stood on her dark head with two majestic horns ".

In order to continue the fight, I therefore propose two initiatives. One, to create a LEAGUE FOR THE PRESERVATION OF CARACO (L.P.C) to which I invite you to join as soon as possible. The other, to organize a demonstration in spring on the esplanade of the Trocadero, each of us dressed in her most fancy camisole !



Above, an old camisole from the early century part of my personal collection. Next time I'll tell you about the beautiful story of a memorial camisole, told by the Itinerant haberdasher.

Tribute to Master Itaro Yamaguchi

December 8, 2009 at 22:49



Threading the Genji-Monogatari - Homage to Master Itarô Yamaguchi

November 4, 2009 - January 10, 2010

Heaven on earth for lovers of beautiful threads. Here they are made of silk and sometimes gold. It is indeed a wonderful journey of discovery the fascinating scenes of the great roller woven on a French Jacquard loom by Master Yamaguchi, who died in 2007 at age of 106. I felt a deep emotion in front of his picture, as if he was still alive, selecting his tangles of all sorts of colors. I stayed long minutes admiring his book with the preparatory drawings and silk samples. Large skeins protected by windows appeared to me as invaluable stones of a great jeweler. For your intention, I you have collected fragments somewhat impressionistic of this master piece. To view them I invite you to click on the cover of the book below. The fineness and precision of the weaving make each character and each element of nature alive.   



The “Tale of the Genji” (Genji Monogatari), written by Murasaki Shikibu, a lady of honor at the imperial court of Heian (now Kyoto), is one of the most important iconographic sources in Japan. A mainstay of Japanese imagination, the novel, written a thousand years ago, has crossed the ages and cultures to join the universal literary patrimony, thanks its extreme refinement and modernity...

It has spawned the Genji-e (the “pictures of Genji”), a pictorial movement in itself. Depicted on all sorts of media - scrolls, albums, foiled screens, fans, kakemonos - and in various styles, the Genji-e allows the novel to be read as a figurative expression.

To reproduce the painted scenes from Genji Monogatari or “Tale of Genji”, dating from the Heian Period (794-1185) and kept at the Museum of Nagoya and Tokyo museum Goto in weaving, Master Itarô Yamaguchi, born of a family of silk weavers in the Nishijin district of Kyoto and honoured in this exhibition, used the Jacquard loom. Invented in Lyons, introduced in Japan during the Meiji era (1868-1912), it revolutionized the art of weaving both in Europe and Asia.

Venitian's threads

December 3, 2009 at 16:14


A rather sad end of November in a rainy and pessimistic Paris. Why not try to pull other threads somewhere else? Following an inspiring thread in the mysterious labyrinth of Venice: Venitian lace, spaghetti alle vongole, spritz, paintings by Tiepolo and Tintoretto in deserted churches, laugthers of happy waiters and last ut not least the last day ... ACQUA ALTA. That's it, at last re-energized I am pulling my thread again !
serveurs et le dernier jour ... ACQUA ALTA. Ca y est, j'ai retrouvé le fil !






United Colors of Massimo

December 3, 2009 at 16:08

It is an amazing and warm place in the heart of Venice located in a lane leading to the Campo San Stefano. A delightfully eclectic and poetic shop: half drugstore, half colors and supplies store for artists. The window serves also a a small exhibition gallery with creations of Venitian artists selected by the owner, Massimo. Last week, there were beautiful jewelry  made of Murano paste glass designed by a very talented Venetian designer, also amazing bags made from tires. Massimo is himself a very talented painter and also a gentle and solar human being. It is so nice to hear him telling you about his Venice, his family, his art. You wish to buy everything, but if you don't, he wont't bother because what he likes more than anything is to meet people ! Massimo NUBE: Studio San Marco 3700 / A tel 0039 347 71 93 918


Fabrics : sampling coupons

December 1, 2009

Through this sampling tissue coupons from Lyon with technical comments attached, one can realize the extreme complexity of manufacturing a fabric. Samples memories of hours spent at the marché Saint Pierre (the fabric market near Montmartre) with my grandmother, Andrée, "première main" at Chanel, to find the fabric in which she was intending to sew my princess dress.