This year, this is through thedrawings ofJosefLadathatrockedmy childhoodthat I would liketo wish youa MerryChristmas. Josef Ladawas a famousCzech writerand illustrator, he is theillustrator of thepopularnovel"TheGood SoldierSvek".His drawings, full ofpoetry and humormakefor a centurythe joy of allCzech childrenand theirparents.
Inthis Christmas time I had agreat desireto presentsomelovelybeadeddressesof the Roaring Twenties!The firstthat I present(left andon sale atthe "party dresses")
isentirelychiffonembroidered withblack beads.On the right,beautifulmodel designed by Jeanne Lanvin...but itis in the museum!
Beautifull crepede chineand sublimepinkCalais lace sleeps from the 30' inlayschair.....Sexyat will,to wearbelow, orabove forthe most daring....On sale atthe storefortoday.
When I say that I am waiting for you, I mean it ! Saturday 1PM, I just opened the door of my shop. The blind is down to get some shade, the table is outside with its lace's tablecloth, colour roses all over the place with such a fine perfume, the pieces of my new collection on silk hangers, the Rosé champagne is in the refrigerator. What else ?
One of the pleasuresof my jobis to neverknow whatI will discover whenI goantiquing.A few days ago, I find out this beautifull black taffeta bolero. As usual, I could not resist! This amazing clothes will be soon on sale inmy shopand online atthe "favorites".
Iwishtodayto
pay tribute toMr.Poiret,
the talented fashion designer,who
revolutionizedfashionin
the early twentiethcenturyby
freeingwomen
from theircorsetsand
creatingnew
formsmore,more
fluidso passionatelyand
ingenuity.
The
notebooksof
drawings byMadame Grèsare
wonderful...
The exhibitionat
the Bourdelle Museumin
Paris iscontinued until the endof
August,you
should gobefore it wastoo
late.
I
am pleased topresent you the newacquisitionof
the shop,this wonderfuldressfrom the early twentiethcenturycotton voileembroidered with flowersand
adorned withValenciennes lace.She
reminds meso
muchSilvana ManganoinDeath in Venice.
38
degreesin
Paris inthisMonday, June 27..I
would be betterat
the beach.Cometo
see howour
ancestorsclothedto
go to thebathroom orto
the sea. In
ancientRomanbathsthat are partof
daily life,
womenwent therein
a bikinilike this.In
the 19th, theywent therewithcorset,camisole,pantyorskirt!
Francoise Dorleac and CatherineDeneuveinLes
Demoisellesde
Rochefort.Femininecoquetry is pushed to the extremewithbicoloureddresses,capelinesandbright colors
decorated withorganzapetals.The ivory model that I present to you, is
certainly lessextravagantbutcharming.
Evolutionof fashion.A century agothesecharmingdresseswere underware. Our grandmothersput themundertheirdresses,skirtsandblouses.100 years later,theybecamedresses,feminineand sexy, andwhich make thehappinessofthose who cross the woman wo wear them!thosewhowear them!
Madame Grès said " I wanted to be a sculptor. For me woking with fabric or stone is the same thing. The Musee Galliera is launching its extra-mural exhibition programme at the
Musee Bourdelle with the first Paris retrospective of the work
of one of the great masters of couture, Madame Gres (1903-1993).
Which child doesnotlikeclimbing treestobuildhishut,pickingcherriesinsummeror
tryingtotouch thesky?Here'sacharminglittlecotton and lace dresshangingintheleavesofatreewaiting thatachildpicks it up.
Thelinenis
alongFrench
traditionthatisvery
important for metoto
perpetuate.Digging upintotheclosetsof
ourmothersorourgrandmothersandto
choosethebeautiful tablecloth for your dinner ...what a pleasure!Here is an
invitationtothe arts
of the table.
What's more elegant than the
dress this blue silk dress of the sixties? Timeless, with her neck and
wrists rectangular closed by two large buttons. Caroline loves it and looks so beautifull with coordinated blue shoes!
DeloffreCarolineis a talented
photographer,sheleaves tomorrowatCannes for the international films festival to
covertheevent.....sexy
outfitrequired!Shechosedthisbeautifulbeaded dressofthe
30s.
Eléonorestill and alwaysinthisbeautifull white lacedress, combinedwith white straps suit. I
can well imaginethebeautifulItalian actressMonicaVittiwearingthisdressin
themoovie "Eclipse.
" Product available bythewebsiteunder the heading"Spring / Summer Collection2011 "
Eléonore with the white broderie anglaise dressfrom
myspring-summe collection ...it suits her so well.Perfect fora summer party or for a
trip tothe
seaside....
Inthese weeksofpainand
sadnessthatruns throughJapan,mythoughtsgo
out tothiscountryI
loveso much and
enjoyed.Isincerely hopethatthesituationdoesnot
get worse.Iknowthatcourage,determinationandperseveranceoftheJapanese peoplewillovercomethe
ordealandgive himthe
strengthtorebuild.
It
isthislovelyyoungwoman, a
clientfor almost4yearswhich
isnowthe
proudownerof
thisbeautifullacenegligeethatIpresenteda few
weeks ago!Shelovesvintageandparticularlythecorsagesorotherskirts,dressesornightgownslace.Iamdelightedthat
thiswonderfulgarmentrevivewiththiswomanwhowillhighlight itandenjoy it!
Beautifull lacy and embroidered neglegee with long train. This is my new acquisition, you can see it in my shop. It would have been the perfect dress for the famous theater french actress Sarah Bernhardt.
Whydo I
lovethecreationsofOlivia ? becauseshe designs "out of the box" as
well as "must have practical" bags and accessories : the
inevitableandtimelessround bagin
lambskinthatcan be carriedover the shoulder,theultra feminineleather
wallet with
feathers,butalsoher unique headbandwith multicolored leatherpetals, a must ! Last but not least the fantastic pendant
with rainbowcolors feathers !Iurge
you todiscover her collection. She is a talent. Olivia hasthegreat
ideato organizea pre Sales eventon 7 and8
January 2011. It will take place inhershowroomin
the 5tharrondissementofParis. Viva Olivia !
This pure and beautifull black and white coat created by the french fashion designer Claude Montana, reminds me the cosmonauts oufits. You can see this model at the Museum of Arts Decoratifs in Paris.
Chistmas red ballsandgold pinecones for
thislovelyclothes horse with thin waist.....Ladies, if you want to keep your waist thin, do not abuse of chocolates for Christmas!
Softness ofthesnow. Snowflakes are flutters, in few hours Paris is dressed with
whitenessanddelicacy...likesilkandlacedressandmakewomanvoluptuousandfullofgrace.Oh,Iwishthe
snowfallsagainonthebeautifulParis!
This beautifull sexy white dress, I have seen at the Art decoratifs museum in Paris reminds me the veey glamorous french actress Mireille Darc on a 70's french movie.
The wreath remind us of differents things : marriage, communion, and also the rap of Europe by Zeus in the form of a white bul, painted her by Titiano.
Caroline,
a friend and a talented photographer who made the pictures of my web site is exposing her work on Thursday, November 18 (opening)! An exhibition entitled "nyctalopic" presented on the
walls of the cozy and very prestigious private club "Le Cercle" (The Ring")
Maurizio Anzeri, an Italian artist discovered at the Saatchi Gallery in London. Maurizio makes his portraits by sewing directly into found
vintage photographs. The original portait of the
photo is transformed by a very geometric sewing art work. It's beautiful and strange !
Yes, I am inspiring the artist Takashi MURAKAMI who is currently exhibiting
at the chateau of Versailles or he is rather inspired by my clothes ! Indeed, he was invited as a special guest by the famous British magazine POP to shoot the singer BRITNEY SPEARS wearing clothes
and accessories from my shop. Next step is for "Au fil d'Elise" to become the official Paris vintage clothes provider of Britney Spears. Have a look at the art outcome, very POP isn'it ?
Edit for Lulu, a trendy brand of Baycrews, the Japanese leading fashion distribution group, celebrates its tenth anniversary this september. The brand which distributes my collection in Japan, asked me to join a very nice charity project designed for their anniversary. Ten creators are invited to rethink and rework vintage clothing and accessories to suit their style and fantasy. Sales will be awarded to Ballet dancers with disabilities. One
of my creations, inspired by the Arum flower's corolla
Here are the other guests creators. They are famous in
Japan in the
world of design and art. The auction just took place. Some art works were auctioned at very high price. The overall amount of this auction was granted to Ballet dancers with disabilities. When arty fashion can make sense and be useful !
Antoine de Galbert is going his own way ... for our pleaure
! He presents in Paris in his Maison Rouge
foundation his private collection of ethnic headdresses, begun fifteen years
ago. As a "sesame entry" to the exhibition, a Yaruba proverb says "this
is the head that knows your future". Just enter the space, the
spell operates on you. Each coif owns a part of
sacred, power and magic. The overall view is breathtaking and each headdress
reveals the mistery of a location, of an history, of a human being, usually a
chief, who used to wear the headdress and is given the opportunity to
reborn precisely in this space. No injunction from the collector to the
visitor. No intention what so ever to show or demonstrate. A gracious
invitation from mind to mind. The journey into
the head of the collector is an invitation for an imaginary journey in our own
heads. The scenery and the text are of great subtlety and intelligence :
their purpose is only to outline the headresses origins, materials
and ritual functions.
Two
gorgeous buttons in glass paste from the Loic Allio's private collection, presented at the Mona
Bismarck's Foundation. When the button is a jewel !
1920's shoes with strass designed by Hellstern & Sons. That's the way I imagine the shoe lost by Cinderella on her way back from the ball and found by the Prince charming.
She is
my best supporter; she encourages me, challenges me, provides with me with great ideas, she reads
my blog with indulgence and she is always enthusiastic about my projects. Some days when doubt sets in, her support helps me to rebond. She is a unique friend with whom complicity was
established in the first second; she is also an outstanding business woman with the ability to embrace various challenges at the same time. Behind its rigor and iron discipline lies a creative mindset, full
of fantasy. My gut tells me that at some point we might pool our talents to design a project ...
Another
little gem presented in the cozy setting of the Mona
Bismarck's Foundation. This captivating exhibitionis due to Loic ALLIO presenting its own collection, the most eclectic and complete in the world. I have known this
wonderful collector for a long time when he used to come into my shop hunting for antiques buttons and when he talked with erudition and passion about the building of
its collection. We recently bump into each other at the Vanves's flea market and had the chance to discuss his exhibition project. On Saturday
afternoon, he was attending the exhibition, welcoming the many
visitors, offering them magnifying glasses to let them observe the details, adressing with patience and sweetness every question. He was kind enough to offer be my guide and pull the thread over the time
between exhibited buttons. I am so grateful to him. I urge you to visit this exhibition while you are in Paris. It is a wonderful journey. Inscribed on each
button, as Balzac wrote in "Lost Illusions" a great little story ! http://www.monabismarck.org
It's
summer and every weekend I watch the pretty brides in their white dresses getting out of the town hall or the church. I had the great
pleasure of dressing pretty young women looking for an original outfit :
veil, wedding crown, lace dress, old accessories. It's been keeping running through my head for a long timeto create a wedding dress. This
will happen for my collection spring-summer 2011. I already have some ideas but if you have any special wishes,
just tell me about it or write to me, I'd be delighted !
I love this wonderful Jacques Fath wedding dress. I like the young Bride's maid.
That's how I imagine Penelope'dress waiting for Ulysse's return, surrounded by her frightening suitors. This Odyssey tunic embroidered with pearls is a creation of Madeleine Vionnet.
Gruau's drawings belongs to my teenager's imagination and have helped define what is now
probably my aesthetic and my taste. A sumptuous
book pays tribute to him. The great merit of this book, supported by texts of
great intelligence written by Vincent Leret and Sylvie Nissen is to draw the mysterious threads of the Master. As he was supposed to draw the lines of fashion, one can realize that, through its unique drawing, he actually influenced the 20th century fashion style.
Indeed, indeed, despite this awful rain, summer is coming and I am thinking of
your wardrobe for your vacation at the beach. Allright, I admit it is a little bit old-fashioned
but isn't it funny ?
This unique art
magazine, published annually and in English presents the creations of
great photographers, most of the time accompanied by outstanding texts or
interviews. In this original work of the photographer Hellen van MEENE, several
models of my shop have been used at the request of the artistic
director Vanessa REID. Enjoy !
So glamorous this advertising for the perfume "Soir de Paris"! I love the neckline with the white knot, the big hat, the impression of fairy given by the fountains of the Trocadero, the presence in the background of the Eiffel Tower. You remember the poem by Apollinaire ? Shepherdess O Eiffel Tower, the herd of bridges bleats this
morning!
The originality of this 70-80s fashion retrospective, presented with a clever and sober scenography by Olivier
Saillard, is to trace with an impressionist manner the dynamic of this unique period in fashion : shapes, colors, movements. Its other merit is to put the spotlight on
major artists now forgotten - I think of the Master, Claude MONTANA, or
to explore the creative world of other less famous in France, such
as that of Romeo GIGLI. Some pictures of
models now become classics. From left to right, Yves SAINT
LAURENT, Azzedine ALAïA, Thierry MUGLER.
Some
designers create by filiation, they are disciples of masters... But
others echo with their time, they breath the air and trends. But some very few
seem to create in a sort of connection with their unconscious and thereby
with our collective unconscious. Claude MONTANA - kind of
Giotto's in the fashion's world- is one of them. His clothes or
rather, his "silhouettes" have the extreme precision and at the same time the blurred shapes of characters that live in our dreams.
I owe
them the success of my fashion collection's presentation in the beautiful Edit for Lulu shop in Omotesando. It's a dream
team, a chamber orchestra where each musician plays her score with
professionalism, enthusiasm and humor. Let me
introduce them to you ! From left to right, from top: Kayoko Shiba - Head of
PR (secret nickname, Speedy Chabu Chabu), Reimi Takahashi-buyer and coordinator of
the event, Yuka Kikuchi-fashion advisor, Asako Ohkushi-Store MD, Kanae Koizumi-fashion
advisor, Natsuki Maeda-General Manager, Aki Takeuchi-fashion advisor,
Ayako Okusawa-junior manager, Mika Amano-fashion advisor, Emi
Nakashima-distribution manager.
In a
survey last year which established the ranking of Paris Museums, it came first. No surprise ! The Musée des Arts Décoratifs does not blow its own
trumpetand yet manages, year after
year to elaborate the ideal equation to which any museum aspires : outstanding collections and interesting ways to present them, an harmonious location with well designed exhibition rooms, visitors so closely watched and taken care of and last but not least, a
dedicated and professional staff to host them ... The Museum with
humility and professionnalism has developed a unique equation that makes you feel
at home and happy to come back. You can sense that everyone in the Museum is involved and caring from the cashiers through the charming staff of the locker room up to the lovely attendants that salute you and recommend you not to
forget the first floor of the exhibition ... The museum is currently organising the first exhibition retracing the
history of contemporary fashion, in two parts. The project began last
autumn with the publication of ‘An Ideal History of Contemporary
Fashion’, and is continuing in a different dimension with two
consecutive exhibitions. The first of this “two-volume” historic and
selective retrospective of fashion will cover the 70s and 80s, the
second the 90s and 2000s.
She had
the most beautiful legs in the world. Indeed, much
more beautiful than those of Cyd Charisse. She was a child of the Mediterranean. When she was younger, she was an actor in a
band of amateurs who played the classical repertoire. No doubt,
she also conceived the costumes. But she was above
all an outstanding embroiderer. How many tablewares did she embroidered with
devotion and patience for those she liked ? She loved
her nephew and niece as her own children. We exchanged
beautiful gifts ... a meeting of minds, from the embroiderer to the lace fan. In
inheritance, I received this wonderful book on embroidery offered by her
niece, Marie-Hélène. She left with discretion and elegance, requisitioned by
St Peter to embroider the Paradise's ceremonial tableware where the
"pure hearts" gather every night to have dinner.
In front
of my shop, opposite the wharves of Celestins, there is a flavour of St Tropez! The "front de Seine" looks like a vibrant seafront. It's hot summer. I lowered the awning and moved out the garden table with the tea pots. Elegant walkers stop by and just chat. Around 5PM, I prepare the
tea and refreshments. Come and see me,
there is so much to talk about !
Shall we pack and get on the tracks of ... Françoise
Dorleac in her blue turquoise
dress with white embroideries in the movie the MAN OF RIO, Emma Peel
in her sixites little orange dress standing by Big Ben in THE AVENGERS, Audrey Hepburn
on Gregory's Vespa in ROMAN HOLIDAY !
A great advertisement found in a fashion newspaper published just after war II. It is hillarious. The claim: Eating pasta to get a wasp's waist ... Fine,
but they do not say that in order to reach this objective, one should get ride of all tasty salsas coming with pastas: ragu, vongole, carbonara ... and tuti quanti. Truth-in advertising !
Who remembers Lucile MANGUIN ? How such a talented fashion designer happened to be forgotten ? By reproducing the front page of Modes et Travaux, showing one of her creations, I want to pay tribute to her memory. I
love this elegant silhouette. Don't you ?
Funny
coincidence! I was at the hairdresser in Tokyo - yes I know it appears a little bit
snobbish - having a little brushing "very kawai" to look good for the
presentation of my collection to the press (just an aside, a shampoo
with an head massage at a Japanese hairdresser, sat in a chair that turns almost
into a bed, is an indescribable life experience). The young woman in charge of me handed me VOGUE and, divine suprise, what do I see ? my camisole models !
For
those who could not come to Tokyo, due to other major commitments, some
pictures of the event. It was "grandiose" ! The classy Edit for Lulu's
store in the heart of Ometansado (the trendy fashion district), the first
floor devoted to my collection, superbly enhanced by a beautiful decoration
around the theme of lemon yellow. The Edit for Lulu team incredibly dedicated,
caring and professional: charming and caring saleswomen, an energetic public relations
officer, faithfully translating
and promoting the spirit of my collection to the fashion medias and last but not least, REIMI as the effective and distinguished master of ceremony. I was profoundly touched by the kindness and
delicacy of clients to me. I put a lot of myself in this collection
and felt fully rewarded by so much interest and attention. Just back, I need
to think about the next autumn-winter collection: wonderful, I am already brain storming inspired by poetic images of spring in Tokyo !
BAYCREWS, one of the most trendy Japanese fashion retail store with which I have been working since many years, has invited me to create a special collection to celebrate their 10th anniversary . It will be presented in the beautiful and cosy EDIT FOR LULU shop in Omotesando, Tokyo's upscale district known to all fashionistas. In a preview, because I hope you'll all be there at the cocktail reception on May 7, here are a few models. From left to right. Cardigan in pink chiffon. Organdy dress and black lace adorned with a purple ribbon. Organza dress with black velvet and black lace bustier and adorned with a pink organza bow.
I designed a lingerie collection inspired by the word "kawaii" (cute) that most of my Japanese clients tend to use when they discover in my shop my lace caracos and shorties. As a preview, some models that will be presented in the Edit for Lulu shop. From left to right : white tull Camisole with embroidered tulle yoke. White tull Camisole with a pretty "Valencienne" lace. Pale blue silk shorty with "Valencienne"lace.
The sweet and effective Reimi has made a great spread for the cocktail introducing my special collection. An invitation imitating lace was sent to fifty fashion journalists, Baycrew's website announcing the event to all clients, the EDIT FOR LULU's shop in Omotesando fully "customized" for the occasion around the "lemon theme" : flowers, macarons, drinks. You are kindly invited to join the party on May 7. It is so easy. No excuse, the volcano has stopped !
The writer Guy de Maupassant is fond of the actress Clémentine Célarié to the point he chooses her to become his favorite reader. She came into my store looking for clothes to play the role. Watching her dressed in a beautiful 1900 lace dress, a lace cap, a corset, I saw her turn into a character from one of the author's famous stories. A gorgeous, determined and generous woman. A solar character that passes to illuminate shadows and give confidence in life.
Clémentine and the wonderful actor Thierry Monfray read few stories of Maupassant in the oldest restaurant of Montmartre, le Bon bock, where there is no doubt that the writer used to come to drink absinthe under the gas lamps still present. With talent and generosity, they do it to support the Chiara association http://association-chiara.over-blog.com/
"Au fil d'Elise" was asked to show up Friday, March 5 at the Paris Vintage Fashion Show. The
event was organized in partnership with the Marriot hotel by Jane May, a
charming young, talented and energetic fashion professional. Jane is currently studying a Masters in International "Fashion and marketing". She was surrounded by first class professionals to mount the event: fashion historian, dressers, makeup, models. A
large number of spectators wore beautiful vintage cloths for
the occasion; hats and evening gowns for women, costumes from the 30s to
50 for men and derby shoes. Such a refined moment of elegance ! The fashion show, with the languorous music of the Roaring Twenties, was conducted with style and rythm including funny episodes created by the models.
In short it was inspiring, light and humorous. Jane will soon make a name in fashion.
For the show, I decided to present a selection of lingerie. Some unique vintage pieces of my shop but I also wanted to unveil some models
of my new collection CARACO, made from old materials (lace, silk) that will be
presented in Tokyo in May.
I had saved her for the end of the parade as you serves chocolate profiteroles at the end of a fine meal. A early 30s dress of black silk lace with floral motifs in pink velvet. Transparent, very, very transparent. Marine, so pretty with her Roaring Twenties style wore it with grace, confidence and humor. Some spectators watching her like the wolf in a Tex Avery cartoon made me laugh a lot ! It's
quite strange but this dress was on a hanger lifeless in my shop. As she needed so badly to be
incarnated in the body of a woman, she became suddenly so alive and
so sexy !
The idea of my first collection CARACO came to me while listening to suggestions from my customers, especially the youngest ones. When
visiting my shop, most of them told me their wish of very feminine
clothes, made in beautiful materials such as lace, silk or cotton voile that could be possibly worn day and night in all seasons. That's was the starter and the driver of the collection. I
first presented it in my shop and over the months, at the request of my
clients, I develop a new line by adding small silk shorts. It was an immediate success which suprized me. Here, you can see a combination of a Caraco with
lace and tulle and silk shorts in pale blue with satin ribbons that was presented by Marine during the Marriott fashion show.
Nippon TV, the Japanese public TV is devoting a program to the charming Parisian boutiques. My shop has been selected. Appointment is made in the late afternoon. They arrive with a crew of 11 people as if intended to broadcast the Hollywood Oscar's ceremony. The presenter, a very charming young woman, looks at my collection and makes her selection. The shooting starts : "she is shopping in my store". The team returned two days after to film every detail of the shop. The program is scheduled for late March at a prime time. Domo Arigato !
I
wish you delicacy in all respects, the lightness even in tough moments, the "allure" in
each of your intimate movements, thousand refined attentions in your daily life, the surprise and wonder of unexpected encounters, the happiness of descrete
elegance, to host with enthusiasm what happens to you, to follow your red thread with obstinacy, the joy of loving and being loved.
IN OUR GRAND-MOTHER's WARDROBES Table-cloths and towels, sheets and boutis, embroidery and lace, fine linen ... THE BOOK that lovers of the art of fine linen or household were expecting has been published by the Chène Edition. Ines
HEUGEL, the author tells us life and history of fine materials that
constitute the art of fabrics : linen, cotton, silk, hemp, linen-cotton mixture, ... She
evokes in a very lively manner, techniques and traditions to
ennoble and ornament fabrics: marking tools and "abécédaires", embroidery, monograms,
lace, bleaching and dyeing. An entire chapter is devoted to the outfit of yesterday. Pictures of Christian Sarramon are designed as "tableaux vivants". They restore the grain and almost the smell of the delicate and noble fabrics. I thoroughly enjoy this publication for several reasons. This
outstanding book reflects the importance and variety of this "collective
heritage" just as it makes up for each of us so many
reminiscences, somehow, our individual memory of family linen. It
also participates in the renewal of Home art that I see every day in my shop when I meet young couples, tired of plastic and disposable, anxious to create their sustainable outfit of monogrammed sheets, pillows, sheets. I
thank the authors of this book who came into my shop to find sources of inspiration and to photograph many articles presented. As you can see in some pictures below.
Mikeli Kudo is a graceful ballerina in every sense of the term. She is also a mother and a woman liking good living. She
is the author of a sophisticated guide for Japanese tourists
humorously subtitled as "Economic and Ecological Living in Paris, that's chic life".
She walks the readers in her private and unusual Paris over her secrete addresses and favorites. In the chapter "Finding time to do the flea markets, she is kind enough to devote very friendly comments to my shop. Even for true Parisians, this guide includes suprizing and outstanding "Must" adresses. It is written in Japanese with chapter's heads in French and beautiful illustrations, photos or drawings. I'm thrilled with this publication as I have a great deal of affection for
Japanese customers. They are curious, sensitive and loyal and also very savy of
the antique fabric and clothe's subtleties. My gratitude to the gracious Mikeli and the delicious Miki Yamashita, a talented editor of this guide on behalf of the Asahi Shimbun Publications.
Found in one of my secret trunks, black and white portraits of divas of the Roaring Twenties. These portraits were published as postcards manufactured in France. On the back, messages written in exotic languages, Turkish, Serbian, Arabic, Russian. A recipient in particular makes me dream: a postcard sent to Astra Djidjian, Ile des Princes - Proti Constantinople. For you, I intend to publish on my Diva's series. Let's start with the gorgeous actrice Brigitte HELM Brigitte Eva Gisela Schittenhelm (born March 17, 1908, Berlin, Germany – died June 11, 1996, Ascona, Switzerland) was a Germanactress, best-remembered for her dual role as Maria and her double, the Maschinenmensch, in Fritz Lang's 1927 masterpiece silent film, Metropolis. Helm was still a teenager when she essayed the role. After Metropolis, which was her second film, Helm made over 30 other films, including talking pictures, before retiring in 1936.Her other appearances film include The Love of Jeanne Ney (1927), Alraune (1928), L'Argent (1928), Gloria (1931), The Blue Danube (1932), L'Atlantide (1932), and Gold (1934). In 1935, angered by Nazi control of the German film industry, she moved to Switzerland where she later had 4 children with her second husband Dr. Hugo von Kuenheim, an industrialist. After her retirement from films she refused to grant any interviews
concerning her film career. Source Wikipedia.
A box of wonders full of gloves and popular expressions: Iron fist in a velvet glove. It fits like a glove.Be flexible like a glove. Throw a glove to someone, ...
But also the glove, as a sign of courtly love. Remember that for a woman to drop her glove before a suitor meant assent. The glove, like a second skin. Each
morning, the pleasure of opening the glove box and choose a pair to
match the occasion: a ride with the Parisian Velib bicycle, a hot chocolate at
Angelina, a concert at Pleyel ... Elegant ladies, do
not go out without a pair of gloves and I assure you that having your glove picked up on the street by a handsome young man is much better than surfing on Match.com !
A wonderful blog exploring the world of textiles. John Hopper, its talented author full of curiosity and erudition offers a broad and incredibly eclectic vision of textiles in all components and origins. Implicitly, he manages to demonstrate how textile is co-substantial with the adventure of human species. With a beautiful iconography and outstanding writting, he performs the miracle of making presented textiles to appear tangible ! These stories of textile are also very moving stories of human beings. When I need to feed my imagination, I get to surf on the textile blog and I walk through it just like within a wonderful caravanserai. Inspiring ! http://thetextileblog.blogspot.com/
Last week, a rainy day of winter in Paris. To make a fuss, it comes to my silly mind to invent a strange figure made of ribbons and lace. I dress HER up, add an umbrella and stick some needles in her body to avert fate and bad weather. Besides her, I set up a button's box that probably belonged at some point to a marabout. The brand's motto is odd. It says le Sava,nail
button, either dies or gets devoted !
Should the caraco be included to the UNESCO's World Heritage List ?
My
answer is definitely YES because the genuine camisole, a practical and sensual underwear, is threatened by new models against nature. They damage our silhouette instead of glamorizing our sumptuous hips and chest and they use trivial names:
top, body. Therefore, I say it loud and clear "Let's protest against the vinyl body that make handsome men run away !
Above, a traditional camisole (19th century) with simple cotton panels and perforated straps. Previously, women were buying this common clothing on markets.
In his book "100 Words to Save" our legendary TV presenter Bernard Pivot is working to preserve endangered words, (a French habit). The exotic and singing Caraco term is one of them. I
quote: "The jacket (male name) is a word of Turkish origin "Kerake" which means two pieces of woman clothing, one that hides, the other that shows.
Formerly, a jacket was a blouse, a pretty ample blouse, a piece of the above in which one could only guess the shapes of her owner ...
... today the camisole is a piece of lingerie. Sometimes silk or satin. It is a very sexy underwear, which stops right at the waist and is held by thin shoulder straps. The knickers are sometimes combined. Above, a model of my new collection made
from a traditional pattern with old fabrics : silks and laces of the
19th century.
The fantasy camisole. This is the kinky underwear adopted by sensual or fast women pictured by the 19th century authors, including Maupassant.
In
honor of Gerard de Nerval, I wish to share a quote from his famous Pandora "You have
all known, O my friends, the beautiful Pandora of the Viena theater. She
has left no doubt for you as well as for me, cruel and
sweet memories! ... Neither man nor woman, nor hermaphrodite, nor
woman, neither young nor old, nor chaste, neither mad nor shy, but all
this together ... Finally, the Pandora that's says it all but I don't wish to say it all. At last, the seductive
Pandora had to play a trick of her own. She appeared in a frivolous costume with a white camisole embroidered with garnets and a dress of
Scotch stuff. Her hair shaped as a lyre stood on her dark head with two majestic horns ".
In order to continue the fight, I therefore propose two initiatives. One, to create
a LEAGUE FOR THE PRESERVATION OF CARACO (L.P.C) to which I invite you to
join as soon as possible. The other, to organize a demonstration in spring on the
esplanade of the Trocadero, each of us dressed in her most fancy camisole !
Above, an old camisole from the early century part of my personal collection. Next time I'll tell you about the beautiful story of a memorial camisole, told by the Itinerant haberdasher.
Heaven on earth for lovers of beautiful threads. Here they are made of silk and sometimes gold. It is indeed a wonderful journey of discovery the fascinating scenes of the
great roller woven on a French Jacquard loom by Master Yamaguchi, who
died in 2007 at age of 106. I felt a deep emotion in front of his picture, as if he was still alive, selecting his tangles of all sorts of colors. I stayed long minutes admiring his book with the preparatory drawings and silk samples. Large skeins protected by windows appeared to me as invaluable stones of a great jeweler. For your intention, I you have collected fragments somewhat impressionistic of this master piece. To view them I invite you to click on the cover of the book below. The fineness and precision of the weaving make each character and each element of nature alive.
The “Tale of the Genji” (Genji Monogatari),
written by Murasaki Shikibu, a lady of honor at the imperial court of
Heian (now Kyoto), is one of the most important iconographic sources in
Japan. A mainstay of Japanese imagination, the novel, written a
thousand years ago, has crossed the ages and cultures to join the
universal literary patrimony, thanks its extreme refinement and
modernity...
It has spawned the Genji-e (the “pictures of Genji”), a
pictorial movement in itself. Depicted on all sorts of media - scrolls,
albums, foiled screens, fans, kakemonos - and in various styles, the
Genji-e allows the novel to be read as a figurative expression.
To reproduce the painted scenes from Genji Monogatari
or “Tale of Genji”, dating from the Heian Period (794-1185) and kept at
the Museum of Nagoya and Tokyo museum Goto in weaving, Master Itarô
Yamaguchi, born of a family of silk weavers in the Nishijin district of
Kyoto and honoured in this exhibition, used the Jacquard loom. Invented
in Lyons, introduced in Japan during the Meiji era (1868-1912), it
revolutionized the art of weaving both in Europe and Asia.
A rather sad end of November in a rainy and pessimistic Paris. Why not try to pull other threads somewhere else? Following an inspiring thread in the mysterious labyrinth of Venice: Venitian lace, spaghetti alle vongole, spritz,
paintings by Tiepolo and Tintoretto in deserted churches, laugthers of happy waiters and last ut not least the last day ... ACQUA ALTA. That's it, at last re-energized I am pulling my thread again ! serveurs et le dernier jour ... ACQUA ALTA. Ca y est, j'ai retrouvé le fil !
It is an amazing and warm place in the heart of Venice located in a lane leading to the Campo San Stefano. A delightfully eclectic and poetic shop: half drugstore, half colors and supplies store for artists. The window serves also a a small exhibition gallery with creations of Venitian artists selected by the owner, Massimo. Last week, there were beautiful jewelry made of Murano paste glass designed by a very
talented Venetian designer, also amazing bags made from tires. Massimo is himself a very talented painter and also a gentle and solar human being. It is so nice to hear him telling you about his Venice, his family, his art. You wish to buy everything, but if you don't, he wont't bother because what he likes more than anything is to meet people ! Massimo NUBE: Studio San Marco 3700 / A tel 0039 347 71 93 918
Through this sampling tissue coupons from Lyon with technical comments attached, one can realize the extreme complexity of manufacturing a fabric. Samples
memories of hours spent at the marché Saint Pierre (the fabric market near Montmartre) with my grandmother,
Andrée, "première main" at Chanel, to find the fabric in which she was intending to sew my princess dress.
From time to time he visits my shop. The
last time he came a week earlier and thinking of him, I can really state I had found two
real pieces of art, worthy of being exhibited in the collections of a large antique cloths and fashion museum. Two 1990 dresses in Irish lace with long trains, made entirely by hand. At some point, I considered letting him know about this "miraculous fishing" and decided to rely on coincidence. And then he popped in dressed in his heavy parka as if we had set up a proper appointment. With a child's insatiable curiosity, he inspected all the drawers looking for unusual patterns.I show him the two spectacular dresses. He knew there were intended for him. I was so happy he took them with him. This visitor is one of the most talented and famous fashion designer. His success has not spoiled him. He has retained his genuine curiosity, freedom and natural sound. He is courteous, generous and caring. I want this mannequin wearing that kinky silk bustier to be a wink and a tribute to his always caring and cheerful visits.
A rare exhibition at the Mona Bismarck Foundation from October 7 to December
12, 2009 presenting the wedding trousseau of the Queen of May, Marie-Jose de Savoie. First
of all, the unique charm of the place on the banks of the Seine. A well proportioned "hotel particulier"giving the impression of being hosted in a private house. Then
the scenography of the exhibition of such a subtle elegance that is due
to Hubert de Givenchy : models and lighting sublimating each dress;
accessories, jewelry and fans, creating life and movement as if the
models were still worn. An extraordinary refinement up to the red and
white roses, colours of the Maison de Savoie along the perimeter of the two exhibits. Last but not least, the personality of Marie-Jose de Savoie, her charm and the designs of
great beauty of her wedding trousseau comissionned by Humbert, Prince of Piedmont
and future king of Italy : evening dresses, coats of ceremony from the best
Italian fabrics. The wedding gown of Brussels lace made by nuns in the
spirit of 18th century lace, is a beauty. This exhibition set up with such style in the Foundation's building dressed up as a casket of jewels, is in a way a great tribute to the memory of Mona Bismarck,
herself a woman of great elegance. Click on the poster to see my pictures of the exhibition. MONA BISMARCK FOUNDATION / 54 AVENUE
NEW YORK - 75116 PARIS
Vintage Paris Couture, the French woman's guide to shopping It is worth mentionning this excellent guide about vintage and shopping in Paris. It is very
comprehensive and documented with a beautiful layout and great pictures. Jessica Clayton, the author is a true expert in vintage and knows the unique locations for shopping. Au fil d'Elise
is presented page 66-67 under the former brand name of the shop Fuschia Dentelle.
A treasure rediscovered when sorting out my lace's boxes. Some
advertisements carried by major illustrators and published in the
newspapers of the time. Beyond the beauty of the picture itself, I
admire the way the product was staged in a story captured in one single image.
Catherine Join-Dieterle imagine a very unique alphabet of fashion by choosing sixty works of art from the permanent collection of the Musée Galliera.
Clothing and accessories contemporary or antiques. Works of art are
beautifully reproduced on fine paper. The text is a mixture of erudition, poetry and humor. Amazon, crinoline, domino, flounce,
wasp-waisted corset, top hat, mittens among others. A beautiful book to read following words that will inspire you. Edition PARIS musées/ACTES SUD
nowTV Hong Kong, the largest TV cable network of Hong Kong showed up in my shop to feature a program about trendy and glamorous locations in Paris. This recording is
part of a "wind around the world" program designed to show trends and unusual locations
around the globe. The program presenter, Helen
Yu Fung, is an icon of fashion and trends in Hong Kong. The recording
of the program is managed as a TV show. Helen selects the clothes and
presents them playing all the roles at once, model, actress, presenter.
Funny, fast and vibrant as life in Hong Kong. After the recording, Helen chose for herself a beautiful velvet jacket with a collar
in swan feathers and inspired by the Swan Lake, she Impovised
for me a little ballet.
THE HANDKERCHIEF'S BOX The handkerchief upon which you spread a few drops of your favorite
perfume, that which is dropped before a suitor in the hope that it will
pick it up, the one wet with tears, hidden in a neckline.
TRIBUTE TO YOHJI YAMAMOTO - Catalog of tissue samples for kimonos (late
19th century), found on a flea market. The blue silks of the
archipelago; as one say Prussian blue, blue of France, Berlin blue, blue of the South seas, there are blueprints of the Archipelago with infinite
variations. Each printed pattern evokes the living nature: cranes
flying in the sky, water drops on a lake, snowflakes in the
campaign, swimming octopus with tentacles, falling stars in a summer sky. Click on the blue attached cover to see the scroll samples.
This unique blog reported by "the itinerant haberdasher" who also happen to follow her red thread on the
web. Sitting on the sofa which I imagine covered with
a crimson Fortuny velvet, I let myself be overwhelmed by a dreamlike
world of great beauty. This Bohemian's sofa, as a flying carpet, transports us into
a real and imaginary world populated by extraordinary creatures, things, events and locations. The blog includes many unusual stories of fabrics and
garments. I urge to lie down on the sofa as soon as you can !http://florizel.canalblog.com/
THE SEWING BOX I wish to open and share with you my "boxes of wonders", hoping that sooner or later you will share yours with me. Today I open my sewing box with the scissors of my grandmother, a seamstress at the Coco Chanel's Maison. She gave me a taste for fine craftsmanship, elegance and fantasy. Through this box, refurbished my way, she is always present and inspires me.
At the Musée des Arts Decoratifs de Lyon (16 October 2009 to March 28,
2010), an outstanding exhibition dedicated to the glove, its multiple status across time. Besides the fashion accessory, you will discover more functional dimensions such as the archer's glove, the falconer's glove, the
boxing glove and last but not least a famous glove, the one used by Buffalo Bill on his last rodeo.
The exhibition also pays a great tribute to the excellence of French tawery corporations based in Millau and the creativity of some famous "Maisons de couture" and their designers which managed to position the glove as
a sublime ornament. Do not miss the very beautiful film commissioned by the Maison CAUSSE which describes the various stages of
a glove's manufacturing process. The staff at the reception of the museum is delightful and helpful. The Museum's attendants are passionate and savy.
In the bookshop of the Museum of Decorative Arts of Lyon,
I have found this magnificent book of the photographer Nicolas Descottes dedicated to gloves. An aesthetic
and poetic inventory of gloves, whether antique or contemporary, in all shapes and functions. On one hand, the glove with its protective function: the cosmonaut, the gardener, the warrior. On the other hand, the glove with its an ornamental function, the adorning of "les élégantes". The layout of the book, the photographies and styling
are remarkable. As such, the idea of placing on next double-page two gloves, very
different yet so alike, creates a great emotion. Thus, the
silver gauntlet of a knight and the industrial glove of a blast-furnace worker. A very interesting foreword by Christian Lacroix who is taking up the gauntlet with tact and elegance.
Sophie's face appeared in my window like that of Audrey Hepburn in the
opening scene of the film "Breakfast at Tiffany's". Same ingenuous
expression, same cool attitude, same timeless elegance. Sophie is a
great
friend, sensitive, generous and refined. She is also a very fine cordon
bleu and the Queen of Paté made of her own best kept secret recipe. That morning for breakfast, we had Sophie's paté on toasts with champagne Rosé !
A headdress with pink rubbons pendeloques hanging like chewable cherries. My suggestion: serve him his breakfast with a matching nightgown. He is going to love it !
In this sunny and warm autumn, all the sudden, new faces appearead to me in front of my shop, right on the banks of the Ile
Saint Louis. Through the work of artist JR, piers were covered with mysterious glances, quiet or exhales.
The 17th century building's architecture and the Seine river have
operated as a beautiful makeup for those eyes. Thanks to this young
artist who has dared to do the installation without asking anything to
anyone, the island, usually a sleeping beauty turned into a "vibrating treasure
island" Some eyes receive the light, others provide it. Paul CLAUDEL
Mylène was accompanied by her parents and grandparents. A little shy, she
hesitated to enter the shop. I invited them to come in. She looked at dresses
with great concentration, she touched the fabric. She seemed happy in
this world. I asked her what she wanted to do later. She said fashion designer.
She is the very definition of tact : to touch without touching. She has a singular and caring look on our world and capture its beauty through humble rejects.
She is an artist « incognita », strolling leisurely but always following her thread with her bundle full of small objects: rags, bits of thread, buttons found, crumpled paper or torn, pictures, books, paperwork, traces of all sorts ... she gleans and transforms surplus into relics of disappeared living. To follow silently through her mysterious labirinth …
The Madelaine Vionnet’s exhibit at the Musée des Arts décoratifs
That was an eye-opener ! I came to realize how this creative and somewhat misappreciated visionary liberated feminine silhouette and influenced by his style all the great contemporary fashion designers. I have a great deal of admiration for his ability to be simultaneously a great designer and an entrepreneur managing with rigour the production of its workshops as well as taking the lead against counterfeiting.
A very moving picture of this little wooden model on which she used to design and assemble her new models. I left the show full of inspiration and energy.
Next to my shop in the courtyards of the St Paul Village, a sort of discrete fairy designs and manufactures marvelous objects in straw : hats with acid colors for the young girls of Rochefort (you remember the Jacques Demy’s musical film) black and white for Audrey Hepburn, bags or handbags with incredible shapes and colors, necklaces with colored straw rings ... You would wish to buy it all and on top of that, prices are very sweet. The straw from the fairy is not a flash in the pan !
The sexy Panty that attracts, intrigues and arouses desire. Nickname « Nana ». Maupassant would have loved it. I put it in the window and all day long, I enjoy watching the reactions of walkers on the street. Intrigued, they turn around it to catch its mystery, it makes passing couples talk and laugh. I enjoy it !
Caroline, a talented photographer and generous with her talents. She took the photographs of my web site. I like her outspokenness, humour, creativity and spontaneity. She has managed to translate the imaginary world of my shop with a great sense of poetry, She takes me on the Seine banks for a photo shoot. We have fun like two little mischievous girls: we climbs the ladder, we hang the dresses to trees and laugh watching the car’s drivers furiously honking as they are passing by.
Beautiful young contemporary woman, she quietly comes in with her
jeans, sneakers and T-shirt. She is ready to play the « femme fatale »
transformation of the Roaring Twenties. It is moving to see her
revealing another part of her femininity ...
Reimi, sweetness, humor and sensitivity. Since 2005, she buys my products for her shops in Tokyo. After New York, Los Angeles, London, she always ends her journey to Paris. Whenever I look forward to our meetings made of laughter and great complicity. She is a beautiful white orchid on a quite lake.